Frequently asked questions

Using same socket wrench, turn motor clockwise and set to top dead center with piston 1 on compression stroke. you can check if it is by taking the distributor cap off and seeing if its on number 1

Rotate until cam sprocket is on NO 1.

Now check

INTAKE 1 and 2

EXHAUST 1 and 3

Set to .008 warm/hot

Set to .010 cold

‎

Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees so piston 4 (or your cam timing gear is on NO 4), is on the compression, you can check same as the first time with the distributor.

Rotate until cam sprocket is on NO 4.

Now check

INTAKE 3 and 4

EXHAUST 2 and 4

Set to .008 warm/hot

Set to .010 cold

put valve cover on.

Check it again at 15,000 miles

Q. What engine rebuild kit should I buy?

A. Hold on there cowboy! You dont want to just quickly buy a kit. The reason is, the engine needs to be examined, or blueprinted as some call it. This is a deep dive into measure the cylinder walls and checking bearing clearances with plastigage to see how worn it is. This will let you know if you need to have the engine bored over size. A machinest can also do this if you take the block to a machine shop. They will examine and tell you what to do. Most of the time the engine will need bored oversize and only then should you order a kit or piecemill the parts you need to rebuild your engine.

Q. How do I set the ignition timing?

A. Here are some helpful readings.

Timing Check

Timing your Mazda Engine

Timing Belt Change

Video on understanding how to time an engine

Q. What is the spark Plug gap supposed to be?

A. The gap should be .028 - .033

Q. What type Spark Plug should I use?

A. Any standard copper plug will do just fine.
Don't buy into the hype that platinum or iridium is better.
They last longer, but copper is the ultimate winner when it comes to conducting electricity.
NGK BPR5ES
AutoLite 64

Q. What degree should the timing be set at?

A. 6 degrees BTDC is what they come from factory set at.
If you want more power, increase it to 10-12.
If you run a weber carb, increase it to 10-14.
I would not go any higher than 14.
This is best done with an inductive timing light.

Q. What all can I shave or get rid of on the intake when I install a Weber Carb?

A. See Image Below

Q. Can I use a 2.0 Head on a 2.2 Block and vice versa?

A. Yes. The cylinder heads are actually the same.
What you want to pay attention to is the block, and use the headgasket that matches the block.
This is due to the difference in oil restriction differences in the block.

Q. Can I reuse the head bolts?

A. Yes you can re use your stock header bolts.
They are not torque to yield bolts and will not stretch.
Many have re used these bolts without issue.

Q. Where can I get a genuine weber 32/36 carburetor from?

A. https://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=K675
For the 86-93 Mazda B2000-2200 you will need the K-675 that has an electric choke.
For the 87-93 2.6 that is not fuel injected, you will need the K-610

Q. How do I tune my weber carb?

A. Look here http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

Q. What oil should I use?

A. Oils are not the same as they were in the 80's and 90's . Back then there were higher amounts of zinc.
Today for our flat tappet engines, its a good idea to use Diesel oil as it containts high levels of Zinc.
Many use Rotella 15w40 where its really hot, or a synthetic like Rotella T6 5w40.

Capacity is 4.5 U.S. Qts with Filter Change on the B2000 and B2200 and 5.5 U.S Qts on the 2600i

Q. How much oil goes in the transmission?

A. In the manual transmission on the B2000 B2200 the capacity is 2 to 2.3 U.S Qts. Its hard to get GL4 80w90 these days, so I use Redline MT 90. You want to use an oil that is synchro safe. The syncros in the manual transmission are made of brass and most GL5 and above in todays oils are corrosive to the syncros.

In the manual transmission on the B2600i the capacity is 3.2 U.S. Qts

For the Automatic Transmission it uses ATF type Dextron II or M III.
The capacity is (unsure, just fill it up and check it LOL)

Q. What should my OIL PRESSURE be?

A. Oil pressure is 21-36 at 1000 rpm and 43-57 at 3000, as per shop service manual.
Pressure comes from the bearing clearances, and nowhere else.

Q. My engine is ticking and making noise, is it the lifters?

A. If your engine is a 2200 it has hydraulic lifters and over time they wear out and will not stay primed with oil.
If your engine is the 2000 it has adjustable lifters we call mechanical rockers.
Most owners replace these after a while or they remove the rockers and replace the rockers with the mechanical adjustable tappets / lifters from a 2.0.

When doing the swap, always use the 2.0 cam with the mechanical lifters and use the 2.2 cam with the hydraulic lifters. If you don't you will never get the noise out.

It is a common misconception that a thicker oil will help with this noise, but thicker oils resist flow.
Flow is what you want.

Q. What oil should I use after a rebuild my engine for break-in?

A. Its common to use conventional oil for break in like 10w30 castrol and then later switch to an oil with higher zinc content like Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic.

Q. What is the break in procedure after I rebuild?

A. Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handy when starting the engine for the first time.

01 - Once the engine has been installed in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels.
02 - With the spark plugs out of the engine and the ignition system disabled, crank the engine until oil pressure registers and the gauge or the light goes out.
03 - Install the spark plugs, hook up the plug wires and restore the ignition system functions.
04 - Start the engine. It may take a few moments for the fuel to reach the carburetor, but the engine should start without a great deal of effort.

Note: If backfiring occurs through the carburetor, recheck the valve timing and ignition timing.

05 - After the engine starts, it should be allowed to warm up to normal operating temperature.
While the engine is warming up, make a thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.
06 - Shut the engine off and recheck the engine oil and coolant levels.
This is a good time to change the oil as all the assembly lube has washed off everything and is not in the oil.
07 - Drive the vehicle to an area with minimum traffic, accelerate at full throttle from 30 to 50mph, this would be in third, then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle closed.

Repeat the procedure 10 or 12 times.
This will load the piston rings and cause them to seat properly against the cylinder walls.
Check again for oil and coolant leaks.

08 - Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500 miles (no sustained high speeds) and keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not unusual for an engine to use oil during the break in period.
09 - At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change the oil and filter and re torque the cylinder head bolts (if the gasket manufacturer recommends it edit: or you are reusing old bolts)
10 - For the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. Do not pamper or abuse it.
11 - After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter again and consider the engine broken in.

At this point you can switch to a synthetic oil of your choice.

Q. Do I need a gasket on the oil pan?
A. No it is a machined surface and only requires Grey RTV or any oil resistant RTV sealant on both sides of the windage tray and then again on the oil pan lip.

SUSPENSION and DRIVELINE

Q. Can you replace the universal joints on the drive shaft?

A. Yes you can and here is how.

(The following is what I used on a standard transmission short bed truck)

Front U-Joint replacement = Neapco 1-0431

Rear U-Joint replacement = Neapco 1-0431

CAP DIAMETER FOR BOTH : 0.947 (24MM)

These are a direct replacement for the factory staked u-joints

Autozone sells a Duralast brand with a different number Part Number: 2-0431DL (at the time of this writing, 2017)

The Center or Carrier bearing U-Joint is larger = Neapco 1-1610

CAP DIAMETER: 1.103 (28MM)

Autozone sells a Duralast brand with a different number Part Number: 1-1610DL

Be careful getting the old ones out, being careful not to damage your shaft or the flanges where the u-joints mount up.

They can be pressed out with a Hydraulic Press if you have one. Some have used a large C Clamp.

Once the bearings are out, clean your staked burs with a Dremel if you have one. If not gently use a round file.

Do not take off more than needed, just clean it up.

Watch several youtube videos on this procedure to get a feel for how this job is completed.

If you are not careful you can damage the yoke and have a vibration that you will never get out and you will soon be ordering a new driveshaft from Texas at the rate of $500. Ask me how I know this....

Some good videos to watch on this before you get started.

Watch the videos "Staked in U Joint Replacement" from bootsnthejeep on youtube.

This guy has 17 videos on doing the staked in u joints.

He does it without a hydraulic press.

Here is a video from Silent Dawn doing a carrier bearing replacement.

His taste in music while doing automotive work is impeccable.

Rock on Silent Dawn!

NOTES:

When doing this, use a paint pen to mark everything religiously so that you put all back as it was and do not lose the phase of anything.

Also replace your Center Bearing (center support) while you are doing all this.

I got that info too.
This is what worked if you have a Standard Transmission - RockAuto WESTAR DS8551

I have ordered one and it felt rough to spin, but I had another and it worked good.
I have replaced two of these.

You will need a large 3 jaw puller to separate the yoke, and I believe it was a 26 mm socket.

Here are some pictures after the drive shaft was completely redone.

This is what was used.

Front = Neapco 1-0431

Carrier Bearing = DS8551 and middle universal joint = Neapco 1-1610

Rear = Neapco 1-0431

Q. How do re-index the torsion bars?
A. Read here http://mazdaminitruckin.com/files/mods/Torsion_Bar_Re-Indexing.pdf

Q. Can the universal joints in the drive shaft be replaced?

A. Yes they can. Here is some info on the subject.
http://mazdaminitruckin.com/files/ujoint/

Q. What kind of lowering leafs springs so they make for our trucks?

A. None, absolutely none.
Think of something else.
Get lowering blocks, and remove some leafs. Tried and true always works.

Q. What oil do I use in my Manual Transmission?

A. GL4 80w90 Gear Oil. The oil used has to be GL4 approved to protect the brass synchronizers in the transmission so it shifts properly.
Many drain the old out, and refill with Redline MT90 and it shifts like butter.

Filling will use 2.3 U.S. Quarts.

Q. What oil do I use in my rear end?

A. Any 80w90 Gear Oil.

AIR CONDITIONING

Q. How can I install Air Conditioning in my truck?

A. Read here http://mazdaminitruckin.com/files/air-cond/

BODY

Q. Where can I get the Windshield Trim Clips?

A. Look up part number PCK-501-86

Q. Where can I get a chrome grille?
A. Just have to search hard almost daily on Ebay, and RockAuto and other places on the web.

Q. What size bulbs do I need if I want to replace the exterior with LED bulbs?

A. - Front Parking and Side Marker Lights - 67
- Turn and Hazard Signal Lights - 1156
- Rear Turn Signal Lights - 1156
- Stop and Tail Light - 1157
- Back-up Light - 1156
- License Plate Lights - 89
- Courtesy Dome Light - DE3175

Q. Will the doors and glass from a short wheelbase fix an cab-plus model?

A. Yes the rear window and side glass, and the doors are the same on all styles of the 86-93 trucks.

Q. Can I remove the ABS (anti-lock braking system) and if so how?

A. Yes, it's pretty useless anyways.
There is a computer module under the driver seat, remove that.
There is a pulsator on the passenger side frame above the axel.
You can remove that and a new line to reconnect your main line to the rear brakes, re bleed the brakes, and you are good to go.

Q. How do I add power windows to my truck?

A. Read here in the mod section. Power Window Mod.

INTERIOR

Q. How do I remove the DASH?

A. See here http://mazdaminitruckin.com/files/mods/Dash_Removal.pdf

Q. I have a non-tach cluster and want to switch to a tach cluster. Is it plug and play, or do I have to modify anything?

A. Almost always plug and play. Sometimes you have to add a wire for the clock.
MAKE SURE you take the speedo cable out of the center hole in the dash and route it to the left of that bracket, or it will break.

Q. What power windows switches did you use?

A. You can use whatever suits your needs, but I used these https://tinyurl.com/2x8jj32z

Q. How should I wire the power window switches you used?

A. See photo below. Hope it helps.

EXHAUST

Q. Where can I get a pacesetter header?

A. Pacesetter Header with temp coating.
https://amzn.to/2W1Q9Pm

Pacesetter Header Armor Coat.
https://amzn.to/2E9cYWX

Q. Do they make a pacesetter header for a 2600?

A. MAZDA B2600 PaceSetter Headers 72C1020 For Carb engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/psm-72c1020/make/mazda/model/b2600

Q. Do I need to paint my headers?

A. Yes is a good idea to sandblast or use aircraft stripper to take the temporary paint off the headers and repaint them using something like VHT ceramic header paint.

Follow the directions on the can.
Some have used their own home oven to cycle cure the header paint.
If dont correctly it will last many years.