All of the B2200/B2000’s in the U.S. where made between 86-93 which makes them about all over 30 years old at the time of this writing. Any vehicle this old is going to have some problems especially with wiring. Hopefully this article will shed some light on the most common failures found in these models.
Heater / Blower Motor
Typically, if the blower only works on some of the settings the blower motor resistor mounted on top of the blower motor housing is going bad. This can be the switch in the dash but not likely.
If the blower motor works sometimes and not others, seems to turn off at random or may work after hitting the dash, usually that is a bad connection going to the blower switch.
A slow blower can be a bad connection in the wiring or just the blower needing maintenance or replacement.
The voltage going to the blower motor is only 12 volts with the setting all the way on high. The switch uses the resistors to lower the voltage going to the motor which slows it down for lower settings. This is the blower motor resistor.
Ignition Switch
Let’s face it most of the parts in our trucks are 15-20+ years old by now and the weakest ones will be showing it. One of these is the ignition switch. The common problem with the ignition switch is that it will no longer make good contact in the Run position. Usually the switch still functions great in the Accessory or the Start position but when you return the key from trying to start the truck it just won’t stay running. There are two ways to fix this problem, the first is to just buy a new ignition switch. This is simple but difficult because the connectors are tucked up inside the dash and are difficult to pull apart without removing the steering column to get better access. Another problem with the ignition switch is that sometimes the one you purchase or find will have slightly different connectors from the ones originally on your truck. Because of this make sure when you order the ignition switch you are getting one that is for the exact year of your truck. Get a good look at the connectors so that you can identify the right ones when you buy the new switch and make sure to keep your receipt.
The second way is to wire a bypass switch in parallel with the Run circuit on the ignition switch. To do this you will need a strong soldering iron that is at least 35 to 50 watts, some 10 or 12-gauge wire, a high amp switch (minimum rating 10A @ 250 V) and some crimp terminals which match the switch.
Engine Related
O2 Sensor: If the O2 sensor has never been replaced it will respond sluggish to fuel mixture changes if it responds at all. When this happens the computer will go into limp home mode and start running rich, the same happens if you do not install it on a new header. If the O2 sensor checks ok or has been replaced check to see that it is plugged into its green connector and that the terminals are not corroded. Good voltage readings are between .3 and .7 volts after the engine is warmed up.
If you are doing or have done a weber swap, then you do not even need an O2 sensor, nor do you need a computer in the passenger side kick panel. It’s useless.
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