FAQ

RockAuto is a great place to start, and for some OEM stuff, you can visit realmazdaparts.com. Also there is eBay and Amazon.

Click here for the Workshop (service) Manual

Hold on there cowboy! You don’t want to just quickly buy a kit. The reason is, the engine needs to be examined, or blueprinted as some call it. This is a deep dive into measure the cylinder walls and checking bearing clearances with plastigage to see how worn it is. This will let you know if you need to have the engine bored over size. A machinist can also do this if you take the block to a machine shop. They will examine and tell you what to do. Most of the time the engine will need bored oversize and only then should you order a kit or piecemill the parts you need to rebuild your engine.

Yes. The cylinder heads are actually the same.
What you want to pay attention to is the block, and use the headgasket that matches the block.
This is due to the difference in oil restriction differences in the block.

Yes you can re use your stock header bolts.
They are not torque to yield bolts and will not stretch.
Many have re used these bolts without issue.

If your engine is a 2200 it has hydraulic lifters and over time they wear out and will not stay primed with oil. If your engine is the 2000, it has adjustable lifters we call mechanical rockers.

Most B-Series owners eventually replace these after a while or they swap the valvetrain to use the mechanical adjustable tappets / lifters from a 2.0.

When doing the swap, always remember to use the 2.0 cam with the mechanical lifters and use the 2.2 cam with the hydraulic lifters. If you don’t you will never adjust the tapping noise out and will wipe your cam trying.
It is a common misconception that a thicker oil will help with this noise, but thicker oils resist flow. Flow is what you want.

To see the valve train swap watch this video.

Watch this video if you want to replace your hydraulic lifters.

Read the How to Set Valve Lash page

Read this page on how to set timing.

6 degrees BTDC is what they come from factory set at.
If you want more power, increase it to 10-12.
If you run a weber carb, increase it to 10-14.
I would not go any higher than 14.
This is best done with an inductive timing light.

Oils are not the same as they  were in the 80’s and 90’s . Back then there were higher amounts of zinc.
Today for our flat tappet engines, its a good idea to use Diesel oil as it containts high levels of Zinc.
Many use Rotella 15w40 where its really hot,  or a synthetic like Rotella T6 5w40.

Capacity is 4.5 U.S. Quarts with Filter Change on the B2000 and B2200 and 5.5 U.S Quarts on the 2600i

Its common to use conventional oil for break in like 10w30 castrol and then later switch to an oil with higher zinc content like Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic.

No it is a machined surface and only requires Grey RTV or any oil resistant RTV sealant on both sides of the windage tray and then again on the oil pan lip.

The oil pressure is 21-36 at 1000 rpm and 43-57 at 3000, as per shop service manual. Pressure comes from the bearing clearances, and nowhere else.

 Any standard copper plug will do just fine.
Don’t buy into the hype that platinum or iridium is better.
They last longer, but copper is the ultimate winner when it comes to conducting electricity. NGK BPR5ES or AutoLite 64

The gap should be .028 – .033

https://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=K675
For the 86-93 Mazda B2000-2200 you will need the K-675 that has an electric choke.
For the 87-93 2.6 that is not fuel injected, you will need the K-610

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They are getting harder and harder to locate since Pacesetter header stopped making them due to bankruptcy. There are clones that works just as good, you will just have to look for them

If they are not stainless or chromed then Yes it is a good idea to sandblast or use aircraft stripper to take the temporary paint off the headers and repaint them using something like VHT ceramic header paint. Follow the directions on the can. Some have used their own home oven to cycle cure the header paint. If done correctly it will last many years.

GL4 80w90 Gear Oil. The oil used has to be GL4 approved to protect the brass synchronizers in the transmission so it shifts properly.
Many drain the old out, and refill with Redline MT90 and it shifts like butter.
Filling will use 2.3 U.S. Quarts.

In the manual transmission on the B2000 B2200 the capacity is 2 to 2.3 U.S Qts. Its hard to get GL4 80w90 these days, so I use Redline MT 90. You want to use an oil that is synchro safe. The syncros in the manual transmission are made of brass and most GL5 and above in todays oils are corrosive to the syncros. In the manual transmission on the B2600i the capacity is 3.2 U.S. Quarts
For the Automatic Transmission it uses ATF type Dextron II or M III.
The capacity is…. unsure, just fill it up and check it…

Yes read the Universal Joint Replacement page

Any 80w90 Gear Oil will work just fine.

Read this page on how to install power windows.

You can use whatever suits your needs, but I used these See Image

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Read this page

Almost always plug and play. Sometimes you have to add a wire for the clock.
MAKE SURE you take the speedo cable out of the center hole in the dash and route it to the left of that bracket, or it will break.

Read this page on how to install air conditioning.

The part number is PCK-501-86 

Just have to search almost daily on Ebay, and RockAuto and other places on the web. The grille is the same grille for all 86-93 B2000, B2200, and B2600 pickups. The B2600 4×4 had a different grille that cannot be had in chrome.

Front Parking and Side Marker Lights – 67
Turn and Hazard Signal Lights – 1156
Rear Turn Signal Lights – 1156
Stop and Tail Light – 1157
Back-up Light – 1156
License Plate Lights – 89
Courtesy Dome Light – DE3175

Yes the rear window and side glass, and the doors are the same on all styles of the 86-93 trucks.

Yes, it’s pretty useless anyways. There is a computer module under the driver seat, remove that. There is a pulsator on the passenger side frame above the axel. You can remove that and reconnect your flexline to the rear brakes, re bleed the brakes, and you are good to go.