Weber Choke electrics

OGMB2K

Every step along the way of this restoration, I have found odd and unsafe everything.
Hopefully my Web Heads can enlighten what and why this is.

I understand how to and why the electric choke needs voltage, however, look close at this picture and let me know why there is an electrical lead connected to the intake? This was split off from the alternator, poorly, in fact it broke the moment I tried to unplug it to remove the electrical tape.

Please advise.

MazdaMitch

It's kind of hard to tell from the picture but it looks to me like they left the heater plate that went with the original carburetor underneath this Weber carburetor.
Also looks like the previous owner twisted that wire and the choke wire together and it goes to the back of the alternator.

This may have been sufficient for the electric choke on the stock carburetor but it is not for a Weber.

You see the back of the alternator where it plugs in to a spade connector only puts out 7 volts that will take a long time to heat up the bi-metal spring in the electric choke on the Weber carburetor that requires 12 volts.

I always find a 12-volt keyed on source from the leftover wires on the passenger side fender well after removing all of the emissions crap.

OGMB2K

MazdaMitch You sir .. have done some homework .. lol

You are absolutely right, that is a plate it connects to. Now as per your video and recommendation, I have ordered the non heated spacer kit to help dissipate heat from the intake. Once it arrives, I'll remove that heater plate, replace it with the spacer you showcased and find a proper 12V key source.

The owner had told me that one reason he was selling this truck was because the carburetor never ran right, DUH ..
If you could see all the rigs I am undoing, it would make your head spin. This man had no business doing anything more than adding fuel.

Thanks Mitch, you are an invaluable resource ...