I thought I could contain this info to just the engine section of the forum, but there is enough going on here to break it up. So let me do some splaining, lol. When I bought the truck I was aware it was over heating and the previous owner provided a water pump suggesting that was the problem. However, I noticed the following;
- No coolant overflow tank (Have new OEM one, need bracket)
- Electric fan run on a separate toggle (Removing, replacing with OEM shroud, clutch and fan. Awaiting Install)
- Radiator filled with hose water (Have new coolant, using peak, Blue, made for Mazda, albeit the newer engines I assume)
- Original untouched thermostat (replacing thermostat with open lock feature if it fails)
- Water temp sensor not connected (Acquiring new sensor)
- Removing header wrap (Just really?)
Needles to say, I am rebuilding the cooling system. This is my journey.
This first part is what I have gone through to replace the water pump. This is not an easy repair, considering how much has to be taken off the engine to easily remove the water pump. I am burdened and slowed down with the task of cleaning everything in the engine bay, why not, it looks better and since its coming off I might as well clean it, repaint it and replace it. Having one day off a week, this thread will look more like a sitcom than a how to as you wait one more week to see progress.
So enjoy week one pics.
Torque Specs
- Water Pump Bolts - 14-19lbs
- Water Neck Bolts - 14-22lbs
These were the parts needed to complete my transformation, and in the end I needed more parts.
Here is what I started with
Step one, remove the radiator. Actually step one was disconnect the battery, which lead to me removing several poorly designed grounding cables from the engine bay that were wrapped around anything and everything they could find. So I said good bye to several 1/0 gauge ground cables.
This is my radiator, noticing it is all aluminum, before it goes back in I am going to polish it and make it look purdy. Notice it's missing one of the attachment zip straps, lower left corner. Keep track, this is an ongoing theme on this truck. Can anyone tell me why it has those bypassed lower openings? I'm going to try and plug them, which is a better alternative to a hose that will rot and break one day.
Before I take heat for gutting the ghetto grounds, I will be adding proper grounding cables that ground the battery properly, plus ground the engine to the chassis properly. They just won't be in the way or very visible.
Next you need to remove the fan/ Alternator bracket. Many will say remove the pulley with the belt still on it, I had no trouble using a screwdriver to provide leverage between the bolts and the pulley to break them loose. Besides, I only had 2 bolts to remove. This bracket has three bolts, they third is not visible from here. (Missing Bolt / Hardware count = 3)
Now you can remove the timing belt covers, Upper and Lower, however, my upper is missing so I only had the lower to remove. This is when I noticed the giant belt grove cut into the lower cover and began adding more parts to my re-order list. 2 bolts remove this cover. Now you can see the grime I am also battling at every turn, thank God for Dawn.
(Missing Bolts / Hardware Count = 7)
(Missing / Re-order Parts = 1)
Next remove the pullies, one is self adjusting the other is fixed. Notice a bolt is missing in the upper left corner next to the pulley. Their should be a bolt there.
(Missing Bolts / Hardware Count = 8)
(Missing / Re-order Parts = 1)
Now you can remove the water pump. I think it was 6 bolts.
Here is the new water pump and then the old. This is a warning as to why we should not run straight water in our radiators.
Now you can install the water pump, despite the pump having a new gasket i still used a think bead of the grey gasket maker which is designed for water pumps and thermostats. While that set, I also ran out to buy the missing bolt. According to my manual, the torq spec for the water pump is 14-19lbs I also took some time with a tooth brush, my diluted Dawn and few terry cloths to clean the block, despite it will never bee seen again ..
Here is where I leave you this week, the lower cover temporarily installed as I wait for a new set. Why the new set? Well the original picture shows of all the parts shows a new upper cover. It did not fit. Here is why .. I thought I bought a 1987 B2000, the fenders are badged B2000 so its not a far leap to assume. Well turns out the engine and my truck are actually a B2200, so the cover I bought does not fit. I also learned my truck was originally AUTOMATIC !! So the previous owner was bit deceitful when selling this truck in not disclosing all the butchering he had actually done.
All the more reason to be wary or go low in price when buying a used car, trust no one.
One last pic, the growing piles of Shite I am pulling out of this engine bay ..
DAY 2 THE THERMOSTAT
Sorta went off without a hitch, still further proof why you should not run straight water in your radiator. I'm in Florida, so I will never really see any kind of cold weather like many of you, so I was surprised to see a 180 thermostat in this truck, I replaced it with a 160.
The one I used has a built in fail safe so if it ever breaks, it will remain in the open position. The Felpro gasket I used also comes with a bead of form a gasket built into it, thereby not having to use more. Like other water system components, there was a layer of hardened white slime inside the water outlet. I simply used my Dremel and wire wheel to clean it.
I cant understand why he left all the extra hose in the engine bay, a quick snip of the hose and we go from a two ft hose to an 8" loop. Clean and out of the way and as you can see missing hose clamps. My god, everything has to be replaced .. lol
So here is the end of day two .. still waiting on the timing belt covers and next week I will be polishing the radiator. I was able to trim about 3ft off a vacuum hose and secure to the pvc hose that runs to the carburetor, again clean and organized.
And to leave you with a cliffhanger ....
