Some sort of compression lock (hydrolock)

kz6fittycent

I'm just glad you figured it out. We all have those moments - at least you and I have!

MazdaMitch

Yep we all have those moments.
Glad it was an easy fix and you learned a lot in the process.

Cusser

We ALL learn from what we read and experience. Last year I had intermittent starter cranking issues, cleaned ALL my connections and grounds, checked the electrical part of ignition switch and the clutch pedal starter interlock switch for continuity, all good, still had the issue. It turned out that I had intermittent high resistance in the clutch pedal starter interlock switch, needed my multimeter to find that, as I'd only checked with my test light before. So I learned a lot with that months-long episode !

We've all done stooooopid stuff, many of us are not so reasonable to admit that and post the final fix - so others can learn!!!

Johnnyrooster1

Thanks everyone!! Apparently that's not it!! I just drove it to a car wash where I can wash the engine bay that is 45min. Away and Im stranded until I cools off. Its doing the same thing again. I still think it's electrical though back to the drawing board I guess. I will just go down the line of all the ground cables.
I'm still going to wash the engine bay lol

MazdaMitch

Johnnyrooster1 well all THAT may be is the distributor got wet inside, or heat made it condense vapor inside.

Axel-Breaker-Earl

As Cusser has mentioned several times about his truck, IF your truck is a manual transmission truck, check the Starter Inhibit Switch that gets depressed when you push the clutch in. These will get dirty electrical contacts inside of them and cause the symptoms that you are describing.

Johnnyrooster1

Axel-Breaker-Earl

Thanks for the input. I changed this out a while back ago before. My truck over heated when I was dealing with this issue. When the truck over heated I thought the the 2 issues were connected now it's obvious there were 2 different issues.

Johnnyrooster1

So here's an update on my truck. The issue of it not starting when its warm is still there. Starts every time cold.
I'm convinced it's an electrical issue. There is some sort of short in my turn signal module. If i tap on the turn signals my dash flickers on. I took apart the steering wheel to look at the turn signals and ignition switch. The ignition switch looks like it was replaced at some point looks like new wiring. The turn signals I took apart and cleaned all of the connectors they were good. The module that controls the lights and turn signal I took apart as well it was corroded in there. I cleaned it up and put it back together and it works smoother but the short seems worse now. When I use my right turn signal the dash lights flicker now. I think I'm still going to change out the ignition switch. Would like to swap out the turn signal module. Looking it up its very confusing. There is a $400-500 option and a $34 option on Amazon. That's a huge difference i don't have the funds for the expensive one and i don't want to spend money on a cheap one that will go out in a month. Anyone have any luck with the Amazon one?

Hoping I can find a decent one at a pick n pull.

kz6fittycent

Johnnyrooster1 the $400 switch is likely OEM. The $35 switch is from Chynah.

kz6fittycent

I'm going to give you one piece of lengthy advice - having dealt with a LOT of electrical troubleshooting in my past - one. thing. at. a. time.

DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THIS. DO NOT GET SIDE-TRACKED. DO NOT GIVE UP ON EACH CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU'VE FULLY TRACED THE ENTIRE THING.

That said there is a troubleshooting chart (page Z16) and a wiring diagram (page Z20) in the manual. The troubleshooting chart is pretty basic, but it's still good info. Use the wiring diagram to trace the power through the entire circuit. You can start from the beginning of that circuit or the end, but either way, stay on that circuit until you've eliminated the circuit as the culprit.

It is always the simplest thing that ends up being the problem - and almost always the last thing you'll find in your search.

You've got several ideas you've been sharing with us here, but we're not there with you. We can spitball ideas all week for you but you'll have to pick the most likely candidate and stick to it until you've either eliminated it, or found it. See the pattern?

I'm not at all trying to be a jerk - I'm trying to save you some time, so please read it in that tone. IMO, it sounds electrical to me and there are some good pointers provided here (e.g. starter inhibit switch).

Best of luck and keep us updated.

Johnnyrooster1

kz6fittycent
No offense taken here brother. I think this is good advice. I'm just sharing whats happening with my truck and the process. Definitely has been all over the place with scenarios. Its all a learning experience for me and hopefully all that reading this page.
Thanks for your time again. Like you videos as well.

Cusser

"the $400 switch is likely OEM. The $35 switch is from Chynah."
I've not read anything about the inexpensive combination switches from China. Apparently, all new combination switches all seem to have black 5-terminal headlight switch and some of the trucks use a white 4-terminal headlight switch part, so one may have to make a small adapter for those. The HB terminal on the 5-terminal switch is left blank when this is used in a truck having a 4-connector harness. One either makes up jumper wires to connect to the appropriate TNS, HL, HO, and HU terminals on the 5-terminal switch, or obtains a 5-connector part and solders/crimps that on using 4 wires.

Johnnyrooster1

Cusser

Wow thanks for the info. I might have to sit with this on for a minute. To make sense of it lol. I would prefer not to do the China one if need be. I've got some pick n pulls out here where I might be able to find one. But that's a gamble too.

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