SpareChangeMazda it might but I've learned that having more grounds is better. I've seen guys add multiple grounds to avoid voltage drop or poor conductivity through the block, body, etc. It might be overkill, but they didn't have any electrical issues related to it.

Battery negative, chassis, body, engine would all be connected as the ground circuit. Connections and cables must be clean and tight.

    So I’m at a loss. I’ve got 2 good grounds from the engine to the frame and then I even just for time sake, took and put a ground from the engine all the way to the battery in the back. It still won’t run. I’ve got fuel, I’ve got spark, and I know it has air. Could I have looked something over?

    Also, does there specifically have to be

    Cusser does there have to specifically a ground to the body?

    A battery relocation is a heck of a modification. Prior to the relocation was the car running? Or did you pull the engine too and do some work to it? If timing is off, the car will not start. You also mention it has spark, how did you determine that? Will spraying starter fluid down the carb get it going? How did you check for fuel?

    Walk us through your processes to get us up to date.

      OGMB2K it was running before I started all of this. It ran really good too. But I didn’t take the engine out and then actually got it running recently too. I know it has fuel. As far as spark, I have a spark tester that I’ve put on it multiple times. I added a ground wire from the engine and just attached it to the negative on the battery in the back to make sure it had a definite ground. Then I poured some fuel down the carb and got it to start that way. I let it run for about 1 or 2 mins and then shut it off. I unhooked the ground cable I had ran and I tried to start it back but the starter kept clicking and wouldn’t turn the engine. So I think at this point my starter just went out. I’ve had problems out of it before so the next thing is to replaced that.

        SpareChangeMazda It could be the fabled ignition switch in the column. Mine went out while I was driving. I couldn't get it to start. It'd crank, start, and then shut down immediately. I finally got it started, drove straight home, whilst praying I'd make it, and immediately ordered a new switch.

          kz6fittycent well I waited about 12 hours and then went and tried to start it again and it started to crank and actually started. I turned it off and it started again. It’s definitely struggling to start but it was also -2 degrees in my garage. So that could have something to do with it too. I know my battery is out of date so I think I’ll try a new battery first. If that’s not it then I’ll look into the ignition switch. I honestly think the starter could’ve froze on me but idk. What do you think?

            SpareChangeMazda can you reuse your key or do you have to get a new key?

            If you are only replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch, then you can definitely use the keyed, or mechanical portion of your existing switch.

            SpareChangeMazda Same OEM key. I replaced the switch but not the ignition key tumbler part. Basically the plastic assembly inside the column that the tumbler part interfaces with.

            SpareChangeMazda well I waited about 12 hours and then went and tried to start it again and it started to crank and actually started. I turned it off and it started again. It’s definitely struggling to start but it was also -2 degrees in my garage. So that could have something to do with it too. I know my battery is out of date so I think I’ll try a new battery first.
            Try a jump start from another vehicle; that should show if it's a battery issue if it then starts readily.

            SpareChangeMazda the battery that’s currently in it is rated at 650 cca. Would that be too little to crank the truck and run?

            Just because its rated, doesnt mean its putting that much out! Thats what I am saying.
            Winter will tell you in no time flat the condition of your battery.