Engine stand

OGMB2K

Hopefully I have an engine stand like everyone else's. The mounting plate is rectangular with four arms that adjust.

Here is a fact about my stand;

The holes in the arms are not big enough to fit the factory engine bolts if I were to find them in a hardware store. (Something Mitch said would be nearly impossible)

Therefore I am using a pass through 1/2in bolt instead ...
Now which position is easiest to accommodate the plate, vertical or horizontal? Currently I cannot attach the plate because the flywheel is still attached pending the acquisition of a new 12pt socket set. (Yay... more tools)

So I figured I would jump a step ahead leaning on the experience of the group.

MazdaMitch

OGMB2K look through one of my threads already I've posted a picture of how I have the latest engine pull mounted to the engine stand.

On one of the other engines stands I had to bore out the holes in the engine stand a little bit.

OGMB2K

MazdaMitch I will and exactly why I asked, I think I am going to have to do the same thing .. Thank you

MazdaMitch

I'm in the shop
Here comes fresh pics.

OGMB2K

MazdaMitch There is the money shot !!
Thank you

lizardkingjr

OGMB2K

What kind of site are you trying to run here, Mitch? 🙂

Axel-Breaker-Earl

If you can find them, there are different length "sleeves" that when used in conjunction with a large washer and longer bolts (14mm or skinnier pass-through bolts), you can gain some clearance behind the engine block to include the flywheel install when hanging on the engine stand. I like to do this so that I can install torque the harmonic balancer (and flywheel of course!) when building an engine. Therefore you don't have to do these things when swinging from the Cherry Picker, or by putting the engine on the ground, prior to install.
It just makes sense to do as much as possible on the engine stand, to me anyway.

Cusser

Axel-Breaker-Earl If you can find them, there are different length "sleeves" that when used in conjunction with a large washer and longer bolts (14mm or skinnier pass-through bolts), you can gain some clearance behind the engine block to include the flywheel install when hanging on the engine stand.

Or one can cut a piece of copper pipe to be the spacer.

Axel-Breaker-Earl

Cusser Or one can cut a piece of copper pipe to be the spacer.

That's pretty soft, but 3/4" EMT would work good!