Everything seems fine but it's not.

Naim_Manus87

Got it back together, it's in time, I have fuel and air, and I have good ignition but it just doesn't start. I notice a hitch when pumping throttle aggressively but fades out when holding it down or letting off completely. It doesn't even sputter. I've been on this for over two weeks now and I've been wracking my brain on this trying to figure it out. It's always something really small and simple and I'll be kicking myself when I find out what it is but hopefully someone can help me find that small, simple thing so that I can start my new job on Monday.. please.

Cusser

Do you have another post or thread here? Like I have no idea if you changed your timing belt (valve timing) or not. What all did you do; did you have the distributor out at all?

Naim_Manus87 Got it back together, it's in time, I have fuel and air, and I have good ignition but it just doesn't start. I notice a hitch when pumping throttle aggressively but fades out when holding it down or letting off completely. It doesn't even sputter. I've been on this for over two weeks now and I've been wracking my brain on this trying to figure it out. It's always something really small and simple and I'll be kicking myself when I find out what it is but hopefully someone can help me find that small, simple thing

Spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor throat, try to start, do this a few times. If it runs for a few seconds then quits out, you have a fuel delivery issue, start there. If it won't run at all when you do this, then it's a spark issue, work on that. This is a common first test to help isolate the problem. This is practically an ALWAYS: isolate whether spark or fuel. And remember: just because the engine can crank fine, doesn't mean that the electrical part of the ignition switch (the "run" circuit) is OK.

Naim_Manus87

Cusser I apologize, yes... New timing belt, seals, gaskets and all that.. I did take out the distributor but it's at 930. Crank timing gear is at 12 as well as cam sprocket. Never separated Weber clone from manifold. I've had to recharge my battery 7x now.

MazdaMitch

Do you have a picture of the engine bay so I can see if that distributor is cocked all the way to one side or the other???

If that distributor has been out and you put it back in odds are it's not in time even though you think it is.

Naim_Manus87

MazdaMitch I've posted the pictures. Sorry about the angle of the belt. Tried my best. I'm thinking the dissy is going towards counter clockwise just a little bit too much... But maybe I'm wrong.

Axel-Breaker-Earl

Take some pictures of everything and post them here.......especially the timing belt setup.

Naim_Manus87

Axel-Breaker-Earl

Something appears wrong with your timing belt.

Please post a picture that shows the whole timing belt. What year truck do you have? Is it a B2200?

Naim_Manus87

Axel-Breaker-Earl

Naim_Manus87

Axel-Breaker-Earl 1986 Mazda B2000

Naim_Manus87

Axel-Breaker-Earl I tried to get a video of my attempt at starting with fluid. Apparently the file is too large. The new belt, even though it is meant for this engine, is still a little loose and I'm not sure why.

Mrcrowley

Naim_Manus87 what's the circle for on cam gear? Should it be set there?

Cusser

Naim_Manus87 The new belt, even though it is meant for this engine, is still a little loose and I'm not sure why.

Why? Because something is way wrong !!!! Look at the water pump gear, circled in red !!!! There should be timing belt around that gear, look like yours could be shredded or just out of place, cannot tell from your photo!!!

Should look like this

Naim_Manus87

Cusser you can see the belt around the back side of the pulley. May have to zoom in but it's there. My main concern is why did a new 109 teeth belt that I paid for still have this much slack in it to where the spring fell out when I maxed out the tensionor... But even then, it should still ignite at least one cylinder and sputter or something. Not even that. And I do have spark, really good, because I pulled each plug individually and tested them with distributor and laying plug on head for ground. I smell raw fuel as I pump accelerator aggressively and I did the very best about lining up the crack timing gear and cam sprocket with dissy at 9 o clock..

MazdaMitch

One thing I also see is he's not using the spring on the tensioner and he has the tension all the way to the right trying to take up the slack on the belt so I'm assuming it's the wrong belt for this truck.

Please look at the file section at the engine docks and there is a timing belt installation guide and it will tell you that the spring is necessary that you are supposed to put the belt on turn it to full revolutions and then you just tighten up the pulley bolt you don't apply pressure to the belt the springs job is to do that.

MazdaMitch

1988-93
2.2 engine uses 110 cog (tooth) belt.
Gates T134

86-87
2.0 engine uses 109 cog (tooth) belt.
Gates T113 round cogs
Gates T117 has square cogs.

Naim_Manus87

MazdaMitch the belt came from Napa Auto parts for about $25 and they recited the 109 teeth. IDK why it's still got that slack. That's why I just removed the spring because it fell out when it maxed out. The other engine has the pulley on the opposite side of the engine and the lower coolant pipe doesn't have the coolant tube insert. I was going to see about taking this engine back out and see about throwing something together and pray.

MazdaMitch

https://mazdaminitruckin.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Timing_Belt_Change.pdf

MazdaMitch

You better get a paint pen and Mark one of them cogs and count them teeth yourself.

Naim_Manus87

MazdaMitch I know exactly what you mean because I already had another one on there, I assume would be for a 2.2 and after a couple revolutions it was a tooth off everytime. This one doesn't do that and I looked the part number up earlier and it is for a 2 liter. I agree with you being too close for comfort.

MazdaMitch

I really wouldn't doubt it at the timing is messed up because the belt is so long and it will not stay in time actually by the time it makes revolutions if you know what I'm saying.

Axel-Breaker-Earl

This engine is either a 2.2 liter engine out of a B2200, or it is the (JDM ?) 2.0 liter engine......or whatever it is called. It's a oddball 2.0 engine with the extra idler bearing like a 2.2 engine.

If it is a 2.0 engine, then the timing belt is special to that oddball 2.0 engine......I want to say that it was a 107 tooth timing belt, but I am not sure. I will see if I can dig up that info......I may have it saved on my computer.

The timing belt that is on it, is not correct. Here is the timing belt setup on a normal 2.0 B2000 engine.......

MazdaMitch

Axel-Breaker-Earl or it is the (JDM ?) 2.0 liter engine......or whatever it is called. It's a oddball 2.0 engine with the extra idler bearing like a 2.2 engine.

I have one of these oddballs.
That's what's going in the project truck