Pnw 86 B2000 update/refresh project

Cusser

Did you check the power brake booster to see if it holds vacuum? I have replaced the booster on my '88 with a lifetime one.
Left and right rear wheel cylinders are different on these, only the left one has a bleed valve.
I've replaced the front brake flex lines on my '88, because they had surface cracks.
One of my front calipers has been replaced, the other I rebuilt.

pnw86B2k

So the booster seems to still be holding vacuum. I replaced all the rubber brake lines front and rear and had fluid flowing when the rear soft line was disconnected. I unscrewed the hardline leading into the back left wheel cylinder with the bleeder. When I hooked up my vacuum bleeder to the hardline it seemed to flow so maybe the back right is okay, but going to replace both wheel cylinders and try to clear any blockage.

Everything with the clutch and brake system seemed to be rusted internally at the components (clutch was a rock and slave wouldn’t budge).

Red91EFI

kz6fittycent

Does anybody know why they also list Gates T134 timing belt for B2200 ? We have an old fashioned auto supply store here that I asked for the Gates T113 timing belt and they told me they showed that the Gates T134 is the right one.

Cusser

Red91EFI Does anybody know why they also list Gates T134 timing belt for B2200 ?

I've used a Gates T134 in my own 1988 Mazda B2200. Fit and worked fine.

kz6fittycent

Red91EFI So I think that in my case, the 1986 B2000 has a different belt used dependent on the VIN. So, mine uses the T113 (19mm). After a certain VIN number, it goes to a different part number (can't remember it). I would imagine that most of those using the 19mm belt, might end up using a different part number but I've never checked for all the others, because I don't have reason to do it 😛

MazdaMitch

Red91EFI
I have posted this before...

From my notes:

86-87
2.0 engine uses 109 cog (tooth) belt.
Gates T113 round cogs
Gates T117 has square cogs.

1988-93
2.2 engine uses 110 cog (tooth) belt.
Gates T134

For the special ( maybe 626 block) F2 2.0 block that requires a 108 cog belt.
Use a Honda Prelude from 1987 SOHC 2.0 belt
Gates T160 with 108 cogs.

Red91EFI

I did tell the parts guy that the timing belt was for a 1991 B2200.

pnw86B2k

Broke the front bumper down to clean it up and reassemble. Got a new black metal section as the old one is rusted heavily of no return.

Is this chrome trim that sits on top of the bumper factory?

lizardkingjr

pnw86B2k

For an LX truck, yes.

kz6fittycent

MazdaMitch Yep. As far as the early B2000's are concerned, here's the indicator, per Gates:

See the chassis number

So, if you've got an earlier B2000 (like me), you can use this to see if your chassis number comes before or after the one listed in that screenshot. If before, you'll need the T113 or it's equivalent in another brand. If after, well - I think it's obvious.

MazdaMitch

I think the key takeaway is round or square cogs.

After 30+ years not all engines match the chassis anymore.
So many hands have been everywhere on so many trucks.

Take the 91 I am currently working on. That is a 2.2 chassis but it has a busted 2.0 in it.

kz6fittycent

MazdaMitch I get it, but I'd reckon folks would prefer to be able to check their chassis number instead of pulling a timing cover off. Of course they can verify, but if it's all original, should be able to choose the easy way.

Here's the other chassis number series for T113:

MazdaMitch

It would be a gamble to NOT take the cover off and look....

kz6fittycent

MazdaMitch "Of course they can verify." <-- I agreed with you in my response. 🙂

pnw86B2k

Finished up replacing the metal front section and cleaning up the plastic.

Just got the wheel cylinders and calipers replaced with the system bled. Finally got the timing light on it and dialed in the distributor timing.

Took it for its first drive around the neighborhood. Need to finish up the wiring for to the turn signals and finish up cycling the engine to retorque the head. (Still not sure why he put 2600 badges on it but it is what it is lol..)

pnw86B2k

Will probably be uploading a video to give better clarification. I got the truck moving and after a small trip it sputtered out and died. I began thinking I ran it out of gas, but as I added more gas from a can it began to overflow. After a little I got it to start again and limp home. It seems to idle decent, but once you give it throttle (1500+ rpm) it will begin to sputter and cut out. I feel like it is worse after it is warmed up. Seems to idle smooth and no consistent misfire on any single one cylinder. Can the electronics inside the distributor cause intermittent problems like this and be affect by engine speed?

pnw86B2k

Here is a short clip of it driving okay at around 40-50mph felt great. (Need to try and fix fuel gauge doesn’t read anymore.)
https://streamable.com/xuedtj

Here is after I recreate the symptoms and limped it into the driveway.
https://streamable.com/tgoa6w

All New parts replaced related to fuel/ignition -
OEM Mazda fuel pump with reused spacer
Wix fuel filter
NGK Coil/spark plug wires/Plugs
WVE cap/rotor

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